vendredi 5 octobre 2012


Hi and welcome to the 2012 new year's edition of Sigur's Step-by-Step Painting Guide article. I usually do tutorial articles every six months, one in summer, one around new year.

The subject of this article is painting a Space Ork boy. The main reason for choosing this subject matter was due to the fact that ever since I painted the first Space Ork test miniature for my own army back in early 2008 I got requests about how I paint Ork skin and I did quite a few Orks and Orcs commission project for which this specific recipe was requested.

So in this article I will mainly focus on explaining this way of painting Ork skin. It goes without saying that it works just as well for Orcs, Orx, Örks or Urkx. ;)

It's a rather simple recipe. Let's have a look at the colours used:

Just a few quick words about choice of colours and painting guides and such: Of course you don't have to stick religiously to the paints used here. It doesn't matter what colours you use as long as they get the job done in a fashion you enjoy. The same goes for colour tones. If the paint you use isn't the same but a tad more brown, green, lighter or darker - that doesn't matter. Just mix it in a way that pleases your eyes. Anyway, I could go on about this for a long time so I'll just cut to the chase and talk about the colours at hand: Vallejo Model Color Reflective Green. Great colour. Very similar to GW's Catachan Green (add a hint of Dark Angels Green to make it look closer to Reflective Green). Camo Green - fun colour. If you don't have it, try adding a bit of yellow, Scorpion Green or similar colours to the darker green in case you don't have any Camo green at hand until you got a colour I would call "radioactive pea soup". Black/White - Whichever brand or making you please.

Now for the Washes used. I will talk about this later in the article but just as a quick note: These are just examples of what you can use. I like GW Washes a lot but you can make equivalents yourself pretty easily, you can use Vallejo's Washes, Secret Weapon's, Coat D'Arms', and so on. Brands and colours aren't important because you can always mix the colour you want yourself (and I can not encourage people enough to do so). Now that we got that out of the way, let's commence painting the fella.

First I chose some random Ork boy. Of course I chose one who doesn't wear full body armour so we can have a good look at the skin. The model was put together, based, the barrel of the gun was drilled out and the model was primed.

For the next step, I applied a basecoat of dark, naturalistic green. The colour used was a mix of Vallejo Model Colour (VMC) Reflective Green (90%) and black (10%):

Then I started painting broad highlights using pure VMC Reflective Green over most parts of the skin, only leaving the deepest recesses in the darker colour:

This was followed by further highlighting using various mixes of VMC Reflective Green and Citadel Colours Camo Green. One word about Camo Green: I got a pot of this many, many years ago and never quite found a use for it. When making up this recipe, trying to emulate the 'Eavy Metal team's look of early Rogue Trader Orks and combine it with the look of the Ork models in second edition Warhammer 40,000, I finally had found a way. :)

In this step you can decide what kind of shade you would like. Go for a lighter shade (i.e. add mode Camo green) for final highlights if you want a lighter skintone or stick to a darker one if you prefer your Orks to look darker. I started out with a 60/40 mix of Reflective Green and Camo Green. That may sound a bit strong to directly apply over Reflective Green but keep in mind how VMC paints have a much higher pigment density than Citadel paints and therefore "swallow up" much of the Camo Green before it really affects the colour.

I used three or four layers of highlights, adding more and more Camo Green with each layer and ending up with a final layer of pure camo green. As always with highlighting (or painting as a whole): Keep your paints thin. That will give you much better results and if you want stronger coverage, just add another layer.

Now we got pretty nice looking Ork skin but we want to tie the different layers together now and add additional shades to make the skin look more dramatic and smooth.

That's why we give the whole skin a wash. Keep those plans to yourself though because Orks really, really don't like to hear those words.

In this case I used a mix of Citadel's Devlan Mud and Thraka Green. The same effect can be achieved by using Secret Weapon's Armor Wash, Vallejo's Smoke or just by mixing some brown and some green, adding lots of water, some matte medium and a hint of dishwashing liquid. This is another point at which you can substantially affect the look of the model by using different shades of washes. In the past I used mixes of Thraka Green and Badab Black, pure Thraka Green or Badab Black, mixes of Devlan Mud and Gryphonne Sepia and so on.

Also try experimening with pure Gryphonne Sepia or Baal Red. As you can tell, I'm quite a fan of Games Workshop's line of washes but you can use any product as long as it works for you and as long as it's dark enough or compliments the green well enough. That's why red washes work but yellow ones will not work as well. I would not suggest using pure green washes because we want to go for a more naturalistic looking green skin.

After applying the wash, leave it to dry.

Now we got ourselves a rather nice looking, kind of dark Ork but with very dramatic shades on the skin. Now for some final highlighting: First I did a few highlights using Camo Green, ...

... then final highlights using a mix of Camo Green and white.

Again, you can use variations like yellow instead of white. This will give you a more vibrant finish. For now I am rather happy with the white though.

This finishes the skin on the Ork boy. These models have very pronounced muscles and sharp facial features which can be really brought to life with strong contrasts of shadows and highlights. On this model, I went for an almost extreme contrast. When painting your own models you might prefer another approach. If you want a softer look, try watering down your washes and use less sharp final highlights for instance.

After the skin was done I went on to paint the rest of the model in a Bad Moons colour scheme, mainly because I did a lot of Evil Suns, Goffs, Snakebites and a bunch of Blood Axes (apart from Kommandos of course) but not all that many Bad Moons.

I hope that this painting guide was informative and maybe entertaining to you. This way of painting Ork skin really doesn't involve any special techniques or materials, it is all about choice of colours.

So that's it for this article, I hope you enjoyed, had a good start into 2012 and that your year will be joyful and properous for you and yours. Please leave comments if you have any questions, commentary or critizisms of any kind.

Regeneration 6+

Hi everybodies!

After a great convalescence i'm back to this blog, 1 year of news, new 40k version, Horus Heresy by FW, little news about armageddon project, Chaos on this satursday and probably more :D...

So i will see all of this things and tomorrow this blog restart!


See you soon!


vendredi 25 novembre 2011

News # 12 Forge World Newsletter #288

Eldar Phantom Titan Power Glaive 45£

The Phantom Titan is the mightiest of all the war machines fielded by the ancient and advanced xenos Eldar. Towering above the battlefield, these cyclopean war machines are commanded by a single Steersman, yet this single crewman does not pilot his charge completely alone.
Assisted by the spirit stones of long-dead Steersmen, the living pilot is able to merge his consciousness with those of his predecessors, allowing the Phantom to react and manoeuvre with nearly the same preternatural swiftness as an Eldar infantryman.
For a Phantom to be deployed the threat must be dire indeed, and the weaponry of these mighty Titans varies depending on the nature of the foe they will face. When ranged against enemy super-heavy walkers a Steersman will commonly arm his Titan with a
Phantom Power Glaive, a long and shimmering sword similar in appearance to those wielded by Eldar Aspect Warriors, using the Phantom’s speed and agility to close with and destroy their opponents.

Irillyth, Phoenix Lord of the Shadow Spectres 14£

Once a disciple of Asurmen, first of the Eldar Phoenix Lords, Irillyth the Shade of Twilight founded the Shrine of the Shadow Spectres on the Craftworld of Mymeara. Drawn to the small Craftworld in response to a vision of doom and horror, Irillyth gifted the skills of stealth, swiftness and all-consuming firepower to the warriors of Mymeara. After many years, the Phoenix Lord led a great war host to the legend-shrouded world of Bethalmae to destroy a race that would, many thousands of years later, arise to threaten Craftworld Mymeara. Neither he nor any of his warhost ever returned to the Craftworld, and with the loss of their Phoenix Lord the Shadow Spectre aspect fell into decline.
Irillyth, Phoenix Lord of the Shadow Spectres is a lavishly detailed resin character designed by the talented Simon Egan. Portrayed in a suitably commanding pose and armed with his ancient weapon, the Spear of Starlight, full background for this resurrected Phoenix Lord will be featured in Imperial Armour Volume 11: The Doom of Mymeara. As an exclusive preview, experimental rules for Irillyth can be downloaded from the Forge World website.


apocalypticaly yours!

mercredi 16 novembre 2011

Tuto # 3 Make an energetic blade (Grey Knight style)

Hi all
Here a tutorial by the damned artificer to make an energetic blade with an air brush

Here's the tutorial for the swords as promised.
Don't be discouraged, it's actually really easy

1.You need:
-an Airbrush.
-Black (I use vallejo black)
-White (I use valejo white)
-GW Hawk turquoise
-detail brush
-airbrush thinner (not shown on picture)

The semi advanced way:
2. The sword is basecoated with aerosol primer (Vallejo black primer in this case, but if you use white primer on your models this step is unnecessary ) as this is necessary to give the paint a good base to stick to and prevent it from peeling of when using the masking tap later on.

3. Now use the airbrush to lay the first layer of paint, which is the white. make sure that the blade of the sword is coated evenly with white. This may take a few layers.

4.Now mask half of the blade following the line in the middle of the blade. This is important to get the mirroring effect.

5. Now paint the botom and top part in Hawk turquoise with the airbrush, making sure to leave the middle section white. This is done by feathering the paint, meaning you start with a gentle layer of paint and build it up to a strong firm colour in each end leaving you with a nice fade effect.

6. Remove the tape, and then you are left with this.

7.Now mask the painted sides, leaving the white ones exposed. Instead of doing two Hawk turquoise you only paint one in the centre of the blade. This makes the colours mirrored on th two halves.

8.Now repeat the previous steps, but in black and make sure to leave some of the hawk turquoise showing. Thats actually it.

Now if you want to, you can use the detail brush and edge highlight the blade in white and ad the diagonal lines to the hawk turquoise areas as I did on the first model in this plog.

The simple way:
1. Mask the white basecoated blade as before.

2. Instead of painting both ends in hawk turquoise, just paint one end.

3. Now paint the opposite site, but from the other end

4. Finish by repeating with black and remember to leave the hawk turquoise showing.

Again you can choose to edge highlight the blade in white.

Apocalypticaly yours!

lundi 7 novembre 2011

News # 11 Forge World Newsletter #287

MkIc Deimos Pattern Rhino 33£

The ubiquitous Rhino Armoured Personnel Carrier is a mainstay of the Space Marine Chapters, and has been in continuous use for over ten thousand years. Its true origins are more distant still, and ancient records mention the RH1-N-0 Tracked Exploration and Multi-purpose Defence Vehicle accompanying explorator missions during Mankind’s Golden Age. Later, as the armies of the Imperium marched across the galaxy, the Rhino was re-armed and re-purposed for military use, and remains a mainstay of its might to this day.
There are many patterns and designs of this robust vehicle, and the MkIc Deimos Pattern Rhino is amongst one of the oldest variants, first issued en-masse to the Space Marine Legions of the Great Crusade. This pattern is armed with two turret-mounted bolters, slaved to the target-logis systems of the Rhino’s machine spirit, rather than the pintle-mounted storm bolter seen on the later MkIIc design that was more readily adopted after the Horus Heresy.
The MkIc Deimos Pattern Rhino, designed by Daren Parrwood, is a complete resin and plastic kit that contains a standard Games Workshop Rhino kit as well as sufficient resin conversion components to construct the MkIc Deimos Pattern variant. This detailed and evocative kit is available to pre-order now for despatch in the week commencing 28th November.

Minotaurs Land Raider and Rhino Door Sets 10.50£

A mysterious and darkly famed Chapter, the Minotaurs played a major part in the prosecution of the Badab War. Adding their full strength to the Loyalist cause, they were most lauded for their brutal and unrelenting near-destruction of the Secessionist Lamenters during the Battle of Optera.
Designed by Simon Egan, this set of detailed Minotaurs Land Raider Doors and Minotaurs Rhino Doors will be despatched in the week commencing 28th November. Both of these accessory kits are compatible with the full range of Space Marine vehicles available both from Forge World and Games Workshop, except for the MkIc Deimos Pattern Rhino which they are not compatible with.

This kit is probably in relation with the future IA vol12.

Rhino/Predator Reinforced Armour 16£

Our final release to be announced this week is a set of Rhino/Predator Reinforced Armour. This popular kit has been remodelled by Will Hayes, and now features different details and optional turret armour plates so that it can also be used on the plastic Predator kit.
Designed to fit the full range of Rhino-based plastic kits, the Rhino/Predator Reinforced Armour is perfect for both adding detail and variety to a Space Marine force and also for representing the Extra Armour upgrade option.
This kit is available to pre-order now for despatch in the week commencing 28th November.

Apocalypticaly yours!


lundi 31 octobre 2011

Tuto # 2 Make a tank company - Baneblade

Baneblade " Le Redoutable"

Credit where credit's due, I am going to begin with Baneblade, " The Redoubtable " of its nickname. Why this name? And indeed because I wanted to keep French names and because I wanted to make reference to what exists in the French army. The Redoubtable, it is the name of first nuclear-powered ballistic missile submarines ( S.N.L.E). Built by France. A name quite indicated for my first super heavy tank.

Baneblade is originally the first super heavy of Forgeworld and it was de facto made mythical due to its exceptional size and due to its price, too just as much exceptional. It was de facto rather rare to see it in the truth, and it thus made a lot of Imperial players dream. Having no means to buy one, I stayed thus on the substitutes' bench too by hoping to be able to one day play one it.
And then came the time(weather) of Apocalypse and the exit(release) of the plastic model, easier to rise, and more economic, for a finish which I consider better. I thus dashed into this project at this moment there, there commencant with Baneblade.

The photo above shows it during the French Waaagh Day 15, where he(it) has to take away the 2nd price of paint. Thank you the lads! Photos this below are more recent, and there is some change as the markings and the paint of weapons.

At the level of the conversions, I added an angel, coming from a battleship BFG. The plastic antennas were replaced by the rope with guitar, more resistant. I not ais not stuck alcoves serving as observation post, to avoid highly-rated Gothic original.

I chose to equiper "Le Redoubtable" with 4 side turrets, because I wanted that it imposes it as much as possible and that it possesses most possible weapons, to represent well highly-rated sound mobile fortress.

While starting to paint the back I decided for a NMM style for all which is gilt. The advantage it is ca give highly-rated one catchy and more worked that a simple metalic. Of the blow with this photo I see that chimneys make rather pale appear in quoted. We shall see for next time..

I slightly modified reservoirs rear, because I did not like the central line of molding which is too visible. Furthermore it widens the back and gives him a more large-scale bit.

Next up will comming soon with malcador.

See you soon!

apocalypticaly yours!

Hiigara and Anselme

dimanche 30 octobre 2011

News # 10 Necron's comming

Hi all on this monday first necron wave is comming :).
The Doomsday Ark

The Ghost Ark

 Imotekh the Stormlord

Trazyn the Infinite

Necron Overlord

Necron Cryptek




Triarch Praetorians

Necron Catacomb Command Barge

Annihilation Barge

Necron Flayed One Pack

Apocalypticaly yours!